Rotary Cutter Brush Hog gearbox ratio - TractorByNet

Has anyone replaced a 1:1.47 ratio brush hog gearbox with a higher ratio 1:1.93 or 1:2.83 ratio. Would this setup help the brush hog to operate under reduced acceleration contributing to fuel economy and more efficiency? Would the 1:2.83 ratio gearbox perform well using the ground speed PTO? The tractor used for this implement would be a Massey Ferguson 135 with a Perkins diesel to maintain pasture, small shrubs and tall grass of 2' in height.

My sincere thanks to all who can provide information. With this knowledge I hope to make an efficient easy to handle Rotary Cutter.

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Has anyone replaced a 1:1.47 ratio brush hog gearbox with a higher ratio 1:1.93 or 1:2.83 ratio. Would this setup help the brush hog to operate under reduced acceleration contributing to fuel economy and more efficiency? Would the 1:2.83 ratio gearbox perform well using the ground speed PTO? The tractor used for this implement would be a Massey Ferguson 135 with a Perkins diesel to maintain pasture, small shrubs and tall grass of 2' in height.

My sincere thanks to all who can provide information. With this knowledge I hope to make an efficient easy to handle Rotary Cutter.

I would think there are a few things to consider here.

To begin with, how big is the brush cutter?

The higher the ratio, the less power you have to cut the brush.

I would think the 1:2.83 is likely too high, that is almost twice the speed of the original.

It will be interesting to see what others have to say!

Thank you for your kind response. I was thinking of a 5' or 6' size brush hog using blade arms.
Yes I agree with you that 1:2.83 is very fast to run on engine PTO operation (A). May I know your opinion on using the 1:2.83 on a rotary cutter using the Ground Speed PTO option (B) to operate. View attachment

I believe using ground speed pto operation it is hard to get the balance right between forward speed and pto rotation. Much easier to get the balance right if you can vary the engine rpm and change gears when the grass/brush become thicker or more dense.

Just my 2 cents.

I believe using ground speed pto operation it is hard to get the balance right between forward speed and pto rotation. Much easier to get the balance right if you can vary the engine rpm and change gears when the grass/brush become thicker or more dense.

Just my 2 cents.

Thank you for your good advice. I'm very grateful to your input on this topic. I shall continue to do more research and learn more. Thank you very much.

Thank you for your good advice. I'm very grateful to your input on this topic. I shall continue to do more research and learn more. Thank you very much.

I agree with Loggin. Assuming your ground speed setting is like our old MF50, it is not good for bush hogging, I've never figured out what it would be useful for.

You want the independent PTO drive so the blade can be spinning while you are still, or nearly so.

I'd stick with the original ratio. Blade tip speed is controlled by the ratio, and is designed for a certain speed.. Speeding it up too much could create a danger from objects being discharged at excessive speed.

I agree with Loggin. Assuming your ground speed setting is like our old MF50, it is not good for bush hogging, I've never figured out what it would be useful for.

You want the independent PTO drive so the blade can be spinning while you are still, or nearly so.

I'd stick with the original ratio. Blade tip speed is controlled by the ratio, and is designed for a certain speed.. Speeding it up too much could create a danger from objects being discharged at excessive speed.

Yes, you are correct as safety must always come first. I am planning to fabricate my own rotary cutter. The 5' rotary cutter doesn't cover the entire tyre tracks so I plan on building a 6' rotary cutter to cover the entire rear tyre track width. I was planning on something like the Medium Duty Kodiak design but a little more lighter in weight to prevent the front of the Massey Ferguson tipping up (see-saw effect). I came across a brush hog gearbox with the ratio of 1:1.69 any opinions on this ratio for performance compared with the common 1:1.47 gearbox.

Southwest IowaWho all has a brush cutter for their skid steers and has had them long enough to create a list of the likes and dislikes of them? I've been throwing around the idea of getting one and was wondering what the people here that have them think of the job that they do, how their built, etc..

Thanks for your replies!


Marbro1


central - east central Minnesota -

I have a BrushWolf, made in Cross Lake Mn - by Cross-tech mfg.
They were one of the first to introduce and produce brush cutters.
It's a heavy duty, well built attachment. If my buddy couldn't wrech it, that says a ton for it!
http://www.brushwolf.com/
There will be discussion on gear box or direct hydraulic drive.
I'm not really sure what the advantages or disadvantages would be to one over the other.
Mine has hydraulic moter driving a gear box, spinning the blades.
I more around 110 - 125 hrs a year. Grass and brush.
It handles brush up to 2 in (well, I can take down 6 in stuff - don't tell the mfg ).
There are attachments that are more for brush then grass (open front to expose the blades ). They really do damage to brush and trees and I'd recommend one if mostly brush is the game.
Brush cutters, in tall heavy grass (cannary grass ) take lots and lots of power. One of the issues is there is no where for the cut grass to exit the deck, once it's cut.
Some offer a roller on the back of the deck to help support the deck from gouging into the dirt. this would further hamper cut material from exiting the deck.
They can be very dangerous attachments.
In brush, they thow cut pieces everywhere. I go through a cab door glass each season. I buy lamanated replacement glass from a glass company. It's less money and no little chips to clean up. The glass generally cracks from an impact, then continues to spider out over time.
The larger the machine, and the more oil flow - the more effecient the attachemnt will work.
I would not trade my skidsteer mounted brush mower for a tractor drawn/mounted mower.
One last thing, generally, barbed wire and fenceing doesn't seem to wrap around the blades/stump jumper plate.

For more information, please visit our website.

You will get efficient and thoughtful service from GTM.

For more Heavy duty brush cutter gearboxinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

(Cat Brushcutter.jpg)



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central - east central Minnesota -marbro1 - 6/19/ 21:25 Who all has a brush cutter for their skid steers and has had them long enough to create a list of the likes and dislikes of them? I've been throwing around the idea of getting one and was wondering what the people here that have them think of the job that they do, how their built, etc.. Thanks for your replies! Marbro1
If you are in an area that has rental shops - I would recommend renting and trying out the different mowers. That'll give you a feel for how there stack up and proform.
Good luck with your decision

Central WIGet a forestry door. Ours has one, it's 1/2" thick lexan which is what is generally listed as bullet proof.

WC MNiseedit - 6/19/ 22:10

marbro1 - 6/19/ 21:25 Who all has a brush cutter for their skid steers and has had them long enough to create a list of the likes and dislikes of them? I've been throwing around the idea of getting one and was wondering what the people here that have them think of the job that they do, how their built, etc.. Thanks for your replies! Marbro1
If you are in an area that has rental shops - I would recommend renting and trying out the different mowers. That'll give you a feel for how there stack up and proform.
Good luck with your decision

Yes, rent one first to see what you like. I got a rental a few weeks ago for $150/day. It's amazing how much stuff you can cut down in an 8 hour day. Along that note, the cutter I rented was very well built EXCEPT for the main spindle bearing. I ended up hitting a rock (it happens btw ) and it cracked the pillow block bearing. I did call the rental place and said I would help pay for the damage as I would guess that bearing exceeds my rental fee. At any rate, I would NOT buy the one I rented. That's why you try before you buy. Aside from that, after everything was cleaned up, I wondered how we ever got along without one so we will be buying one, just not that brand. The one Chris has looks pretty stout.


central - east central Minnesota -rHiNoBaLlS - 6/20/ 09:00 iseedit - 6/19/ 22:10marbro1 - 6/19/ 21:25 Who all has a brush cutter for their skid steers and has had them long enough to create a list of the likes and dislikes of them? I've been throwing around the idea of getting one and was wondering what the people here that have them think of the job that they do, how their built, etc.. Thanks for your replies! Marbro1
If you are in an area that has rental shops - I would recommend renting and trying out the different mowers. That'll give you a feel for how there stack up and proform.
Good luck with your decision Yes, rent one first to see what you like. I got a rental a few weeks ago for $150/day. It's amazing how much stuff you can cut down in an 8 hour day. Along that note, the cutter I rented was very well built EXCEPT for the main spindle bearing. I ended up hitting a rock (it happens btw ) and it cracked the pillow block bearing. I did call the rental place and said I would help pay for the damage as I would guess that bearing exceeds my rental fee. At any rate, I would NOT buy the one I rented. That's why you try before you buy. Aside from that, after everything was cleaned up, I wondered how we ever got along without one so we will be buying one, just not that brand. The one Chris has looks pretty stout.
I lost count of the number of rocks I've hit and ground up with the brush wolf . . .. Not on purpose, just hidden in the brush/grass/weeds. I broke a blade in half one time. My gear box has wear/slop, but - nothing broken.
If a guy has a brush cutter and doesn't split rocks, well, then it's a brush cutter that simple not being used.


central - east central Minnesota -WI Jeff - 6/20/ 07:31 Get a forestry door. Ours has one, it's 1/2" thick lexan which is what is generally listed as bullet proof.

I thinking about a thicker lamanated glass . . . I doubt I want lexan, it scratchs more so then glass. My understanding with lexan is in the winter, it fogs more (cold snow / warm inside cab ) ?